Wednesday, September 23, 2009

VBar Auto Trimming For The Impatient

Here's a quick and dirty 10 step VBar Autotrim Guide:
  1. Check the Autotrim Activate box in the VStabi 4.0 Software
  2. Turn on Transmitter and set Collective Stick to Full Up
  3. Turn on your Heli (Make sure you have Throttle Hold on to prevent your heli from spooling up!!)
  4. After the initial power-up twitch, your blades will pitch up and down twice to confirm that the VBar is in Autotrim mode.
  5. Set Collective Stick to Middle (Do not bring it any further down - Down Collective signals to the VBar that you have completed the Autotrim and turns off Autotrim)
  6. Put your heli out in the flying field and ready for take off (Make sure that there is little or no wind for accurate Autotrimming)
  7. Spool up (Turn off Throttle Hold) and take-off into a nice hover at Eye Level (Any lower and ground effect could throw off your autotrim.) Your headspeed during autotrimming should be what you normally fly at.
  8. Keep your heli in a hover at the same spot and altitude for at least 60 seconds. Try not to input any drastic stick movements during this time, keep it smooth with as little stick movements as possible. Have a few seconds (2 to 4 seconds each time should be enough) here and there during your flight where you do not move the sticks at all and let the heli drift a little.
  9. Gently land. Once the heli spools down, set Collective to Full Down to signal to the VBar that your autotrim flight has ended. Power off your Heli.
  10. Connect VBar to your PC/Laptop, load up VStabi 4.0 Software and confirm that the Traffic Light in Autotrim has turned Green and uncheck Activate box. You'll have to do it again if it's a red or yellow light. Congrats! You have completed Auto-Trimming of your VBar!
Note that you'll have to get your heli's CG right at your main shaft for the Auto-Trimming to work well.

As usual if things does not work right the 1st time, try again, but double checking that you have all the steps nailed each time your try. Once you're done, you'll be rewarded a very nice flying flybarless heli!

Best Hard 3D Flight on a Flybarless 90-sized Nitro Yet!

Test 1

Test 2

Alan Szabo Jr does his flybarless magic on a Trex 700 in Taiwan...

Some details on his setup:
Align 91HZ Engine
Align 90 Pipe
Align DS610 Cyclic Servos
Align DS650 Tail Servo
Align 690D Blades

Looks like the Align Flybarless and the Curtis Youngblood Total G are the Flybarless systems to watch out this coming year!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Flybarless for beginners? Nice, but you might need help...

I can only speak about Mikado Vbar/VStabi and Gyrobot (both I have used or personally know people using extensively)

For Flying
Flybarless is better at:
  1. Inverted flying
  2. Flying in strong winds
  3. Flying high speeds
  4. Flipping and rolling
  5. More power/flight time (more efficient by at least 10%)
(Assuming you have a properly installed flybarless system) Flybarless is better cause it's definitely more stable that a heli with flybar and tends to roll and flip on axis better (i.e. doesn't drift away as much).

For Crash Repairs and Heli Maintenance
Flybarless saves time and money because you don't need to (remove), buy and tune:
  1. Flybar
  2. Flybar paddles
  3. Flybar seesaw
  4. 2 more pairs of linkages that connect your blades to the flybar system.
I hate adjusting linkages!!! Flybar heads has 6 linkages, flybarless has only 2 - yay!

For Installation and Testing:
Flybarless systems are easy, but only if you like working with electronics (and maybe PCs/Laptops) to set it up. You'll also have to have a sound understanding of these:
  1. Gyros and Gyro Sensors
  2. The Swashpate and how it affects your blades in flight
The new Mikado Vbar Homepage has a whole bunch of great videos to show you all you need. I made a Quick 20 Step Guide for Dummies here.

Less Time Repairing, More Time Flying
After the ground jumps up and grabs my heli (the only reason why I crash :P), on my Logo 600, it takes only 5 mins to setup the linkages and head again, for my Klone 50 with flybar, it can take 30 minutes or more (depending how much I have to wrestle with the bent flybar that can't come out) So if you're a busy guy with cash to invest in a Vbar or Gyrobot, it kinda makes sense...

The Piro Question
Some people (including me!) have noted that flybarless systems feels harder to nail pirouetting maneuvers (e.g. Piro Flips) But since I switched to VBar V4.0, it seems alright now. I have seen others that were on the flybar get on VBar 4.0 and perform piro loops, flips and tic-tocs - no problemo.

Make Your Heli Fly - The Way You Want It
Flybarless systems make it easier to tweak and tune the cyclic response and collective pitch of you heli. Make your collectively really pop or have a blazing fast roll rate. On the other hand, you can make it as gentle as a baby's ass (ok, bad analogy), simply adjust the numbers on the screen! For flybar heads, you have to adjust mixing ratios (mechanically) and try different types of costly paddles - bleah!

A New Hope
Since 2009, with the Mikado VBar V4.0, and Gyrobot, Flybarless systems are much easier to setup. With the VBar, you'll have to like to use a PC/Laptop to set it up (and you can save different setups to a file for backup or share with others). The Gyrobot comes with it's own programming box, so in that sense it's easier to setup and (PC setup is optional).

Summary
For most beginners (heli geniuses excluded), get a dude that knows how to setup and fly flybarless systems to help you. For the pros and experienced guys, it's exciting to try flybarless, for it is a whole new experience...

For additional notes on the battle between Flybar and Flybarless you can take a look at this and here for more of my notes on flybarless.

Hope this helps!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Flight School Part 5 - Flips & Rolls

Finally! Some aerobatics! If you have been following this Flight School, Parts 1 to 4 were hardly 3D aerobatics, in fact it feels far from it. But fret no more, now we're gonna get our hands dirty in some beginnings of 3D RC Helicopter aerobatics.

Be warned however, if you haven't got the skills the previous lessons mentioned, it would be kinda risky for your heli. Due to the demands of 3D aerobatic flight, your heli would have to be pretty well setup and maintained, loose/worn-out parts and/or tail not holding when doing aerobatics could spell disaster... However, if you have what it takes you'll find aerobatics on your heli extremely rewarding.

What's the difference between a Flip and a Roll?
OK, to some the answer's obvious, but just to be sure.... Both of them use cyclic controls, just that Flips use the elevator and Rolls use the aileron as the primary cyclic control to accomplish the maneuver. Other than that, the are pretty similar to me, both need good timing and collective management to pull off nicely.

Why do I want to learn Flips and Rolls?
Other than obvious reasons and personal reasons you may or may not have. I believe skills in backward flight and flips and rolls would establish a very good foundation for going into inverted flight/maneuvers. The main reason being, if something good wrong when attempting inverted stuff, you need to quickly roll/flip back to upright flight and when that happens in a hurry/panic, your heli might actually be flying backwards! The the reason why this Flight School teaches hovering in all orientations, backward flight and flips/rolls on that order before teaching anything inverted.

Myth-busters
A common complain is that "My heli drifts whenever it rolls". The drifting here means that it does not roll on axis, somehow it seems that some elevator and/or rudder is mixed into the roll. Here's the myth-buster - most helis, would "drift" a little no matter how good the setup. Some purist would say the drift can extremely little (imperceptible?) if you would mix out the interaction on the swash-plate, adjust phasing and/or mix your throttle with aileron, elevator and rudder inputs. But all this is for another discussion altogether, Google them if you need to satisfy your thirst for knowledge. What I'm tying to say is, you don't need a perfect (or close to perfect) setup to have some fun with 3D flying, you just need a reasonably good setup, the rest is up to your thumbs/fingers - you need to be in control of the heli throughout the maneuver to keep it on track!

The Setup
I like a linear pitch curve on the Collective, have at least 9 degrees for max up collective and at least -9 degrees for your max down collective. I like to have +/-11 to 13 degrees, but you'll need good collective management skills to avoid bogging your head-speed dangerously.

For your Cyclics (Alieron and Elevator) try to make it such that it takes about half a second to one second to roll/flip to inverted from a hover. To adjust the speed of your roll/flip, you'll need to adjust your cyclic pitch and/or paddles and maybe even lighter main blades to speed things up on the cyclics. For paddles, the lighter, the faster your cyclic response will be. Cyclic pitch of +/- 5 degrees to +/- 8 degrees should be fine for most helis.

You'll need a good holding-hold Gyro and Tail Setup for 3D your tail must be able to hold it's heading when punching in Collective and Cyclics, though as mentioned above, don't expect the hold to be perfect, it can wag a little, provided a) the wag does not get worse over time and b) the tail quickly moves back to it's intended position after the little wag.

The Drill
I'll like to think flips are like throwing a stick in the air. You'll give it a boost upwards (from gravity) just as the stick leaves your hand, nudge it so it starts to rotate. The stick should flip in mid-air, as the stick falls back to earth, catch it. If you timed your throw and the stick's rotation nicely, your stick would flip in the air and you'll catch it after it performs a complete flip.

That's essentially what you are trying to do with your heli in a Flip. The Collective gives the heli the initial boost up, then nudge it with your Elevator to perform the Flip. Once Flip has gone one complete round, catch it with your Collective to halt your RC helicopter's fall to earth.

Well, that's an easy way to look at it... unlike the stick in which you have do control once it leaves your hand, as your heli performs the Flip and comes around to inverted (half way point of the complete flip), you'll want to add some negative/down collective to minimize loss of altitude when performing the Flip. Would like to mention at this point, you need to be smooth and gentle with the sticks, especially the Collective, input only what you need and slowly if you're not sure. Just make sure you have enough altitude for mistakes, hesitations and recovery.

You goal when practicing Flips and Rolls should be to maintain your
  1. Altitude (Stay at the same height)
  2. Heading (Point the same direction)
  3. Position (Stay the the same position relative to the ground)
The above takes a combination of good heli setup and good timing on your sticks to perform well.

SIM-ple beats the Hard Ground
Please practice on your Simulator before going ahead with this with your heli. Make sure you and do it without much thinking and you'll do fine with your heli at the field. However, if you have an agenda against Simulators or are Simulator-challenged. Visualize it in your head as you move your transmitter sticks, it's not as accurate as the Sim, but it's better than nothing.

Getting Better Now...
You can learn a Flip or Roll first, that's up to your preference, but you'll need to master both reasonably well before attempting anything more advanced. Always remember to learn both ways, meaning roll right, roll left and flip forward and flip backwards.

Universal Orientation
It's tempting to just master an aerobatic maneuver one way and move on, however, that'll be building on shaky foundations. Do try your Flips (Forwards & Backwards) and Rolls (Left & Right) nose-in/out, nose-left/right. If you really want to be complete, you can also do all that at different altitudes (E.g. Way up high in the sky and too low for comfort) they feel different.

That's all for now, stay tuned for Part 6 - Inverted Flight. Meanwhile, have a flippin' rollin' good time!

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Mikado Logo 600 Flybarless Electric Tips

From Mikado Logo 600
Important Tips
My Logo 600 main blade grip bolts were bending when I was running it at about 2200 (as in they got deformed) had to change mine to Titanium Main Grip Bolts from Hirobo (I believe they were for 60 sized Hirobo helis). I also had a few bolts in my kit that were bent/deformed even before using them! That would lead me to believe that the quality of the bolts supplied may be not as good, so please check.

The tail grip bolts (the ones that screw into the hub) are relatively small, make sure you replace them (and also the hub) if you suspect that they have taken any knocks or stress. And when you do, put as much blue threadlock (without overflowing it to the bearings/washers!) on the bolts before screwing it in. Also, use only Blue Threadlock as they work though oil and grease. As an added precaution, you may clean the threads in the tail hub to remove excess oil present during manufacturing.

Essentially, you'll notice that the tail parts are a little tiny compared to the rest of the heli, so extra precautions on the tail are always good. Other than that, most would agree that the Mikado's tail unit gives very good response and perfomance.

Securing the Tail Boom is important, you'll need to make sure that the bolts (4 of them) on both ends of the boom (the main frame end and the tail assembly end) are tightened sufficiently. After tightening, expect to have to re-tighten them again after a flight or two. Once the airframe is sufficiently broken-in you'll need to re-tighten the bolts less often.

Cyclic Servo Horns: I'll stick to the JR Super Horns made of good plastic (Nylon). Metal and carbon fiber horns tend to destroy other parts of your heli during un-planned landings. For example, I rather my Servo Horn breaking (< $1) rather than my Swash-Plate (> $100) (happened to me once!)

My Setup
Headspeed: 2050rpm (Governed by Kontronix Jazz, use a tacho to get it right!)
Main Blades: NHP Razor Pro 620mm (Carbon Fiber)
Tail Blades: NHP 100mm (97mm not as good, 105mm kinda too long)
Motor: Scorpion 4025-630 KV
Pinon: 10T Mod 1.0
Main Gear: 105T Mod 1.0
ESC: Kontronix Jazz 55-10-32
Batteries: Zippy 5s 5000mAh 15C x 2 (in series to make 10s)
Connectors: 6mm Gold Plated Bullets
Receiver: Futaba R6014FS 2.4GHz FASST 14-Channel
Cyclic Servos: JR 8717
Tail Servo: JR 8900G
Gyro: Mikado V-Bar V4.0
Weight: 3.66kg (RTF) 

Flight Times & Smart Li-poly Battery Management Techniques
Flight Time: Max 10mins, I do 6mins flights for safety (less stress on the batteries and you can quick charge them to 4.1v per cell - about 85% capacity - in almost 1/2 the time of a full 4.2v per cell charge!)

Chargers: 2 x Hyperion 0610i NET (Charges from 3.7v per cell - 25% capacity - to 4.1v per cell - 85% capacity - in 30mins with only 1C charge rate! Read - Faster charge + long battery life = more flights + less $$$ + more joy)

VStabi Settings
Here's the juicy part - my Logo 600 Hard 3D VBar/VStabi Parameter file for download - helidaniel-logo600-12jun09.vbr (right-click and Save As). Bear in mind that you have to adjust the trims and endpoints and possibly servo reverse to suit your heli's electronics and linkage setup. Also, don't forget to check your gyro sensor direction.

Here's a Quick and Dirty VBar Guide

Here's a video on how the Logo 600 setup flies

I hope that your Logo 600 flies very well, do drop me a comment or email (daniel@helidaniel.com) I'll do my best to respond.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Klone 50SE RFX File for RealFlight G4.5


 
RFX file for RealFlight G4.5 that looks and files like my Klone 50 with a Redline 53 Engine. The Gyro feels like my Solid-G with consistent piro rates.

Here's the download link (right-click and Save As):
Klone 50SE_EA.RFX

I'm a big fan of RealFlight because I don't have to configure my transmitter to connect to the Simulator and I have no worries of charging my transmitter battery after a sim session. On top of that, it has very realistic physics and graphics.

The model was based on a TRex 600N RFX File.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

O.S. 55-HZ vs Novarossi R57HR 3D (and now - vs YS 56) Video Shootout!

First up, we have Lukas Riva - 2008 3DX World Champion with the Novarossi R57HR 3D on a T-Rex 600N:

Nova Rossi 57
Output: 2.39ps @ 18500rpm
Weight: 14.99oz (425g)
Muffler: Novarossi Rex H5

On the other side of the ring, we have Bert Kammerer - 2nd place Align Cup Las Vegas 2008 flying the OS 55HZ also on a T-Rex 600N:

O.S. 55-HZ
Output: 2.1ps @ 17000rpm
Weight: 14.39oz (408g)
Muffler: New Hatori SAB-56

Verdict
Hmm... personally, I like the OS 55 flight better... but that's just my personal opinion - the choice is yours! Thanks to the excellent pilots that gave us this very nice demonstration of next-gen heli nitro engines!

Hope you enjoyed it, cheers!

THIS JUST IN
YS 56 on a Outrage Velocity 50 by Henry Caldwell @ IRCHA 2009

Henry Caldwell - IRCHA 2009 - Velocity 50 from Greg A on Vimeo.
YS 56
Weight: 406g
(From what I know, YS does not release output power ratings for their engines)

That was a great flight... but I'm still  a OS 55HZ fan. :)


Which New 50 Sized Engine is your Fav?

How To Fly A Raptor 50

Like this:


And like that:


Something's wrong with my heli, it doesn't fly like that! :P

The second video is a heavily modified Raptor 50. It involves:

a) Use of high-speed high-torque servos
b) Mechanical set up to increase collective speed (which trades off control resolution)
c) Cutting larger holes in the main frame to allow more collective tray movement
d) Lightening the collective tray by cutting away portions of it, to allow faster collective
e) Modification of aileron servo mount and levers to allow more aileron throw
f) Making your own fly-bar mixer arms and drilling new holes in the fly-bar seesaw to attach them. (To give better cyclic and collective response)

The first video is the newer Raptor 50 Titan SE which basically comes with new parts that does away with modification f), but it still has the slower and clumsier M-CCPM design that Rappys are afflicted with. To be fair with M-CCPM it's possibly harder to get it wrong during setup and that helps beginners... but it is a 12-year old design. People also mention that there is almost no "control interaction" with M-CCPM, but with modern electronics and servos that are properly setup, E-CCPM is the choice almost all serious 3D pilots make for serious 3D flying.

If you don't want to go through the pain and uncertainty of hacking away at your helicopter and want the advatages of an elegant E-CCPM system, I'll recommend the Klone 50 from Klone RC it's an OEM (read: low-cost) Raptor with E-CCPM allowing for lighting fast cyclics and +/- 12 degrees of collective right out of the box. The fact that it's at least 100 grams lighter than the Thunder Tiger Raptor 50 and features a full-metal head doesn't hurt either.

Now all I have to do is to make a video of my Klone 50 flying some 3D. :) Thanks for reading!

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Klone 50 Photo Gallery

3D Aeromuscials Peformed with Parkflyers/Foamies

This one's for Singapore's National Day 2008



...and this one's for Singapore's National Day 2007

F3P Practice Indoors with the Clik



Having some F3P fun in an indoor badminton hall. The Clik here weighs an amazing 130grams RTF with battery!

F3A Flights by Daniel



Aircraft: Altair 200 - Electric Conversion
Schedule: FAI P-09
Location: Sultan of JB Palace Grounds



Aircraft: Sebart Angel S 50
Schedule: FAI P-09
Location: Radio Modellers Singapore (RMS) Field

3DX Singapore 2009 Round 2 (Freestyle) - Daniel Sim



Aircraft
Klone RC Klone 50
Futaba 9403, 9251
Futaba R608FS FASST
CY Solid-G
Cool Power 30%
CY ATG
OS 50SX-H
Klone RC 600mm (Main)
CY 95mm (Tail)
PowerBox Digi-Switch
2000rpm Headspeed

Radio
Futaba 12MZ

Placing for Round 2
International: 11th
Singapore: 2nd

3DX Singapore 2009 Round 1(Set Maneuvers) - Daniel Sim



Aircraft
Mikado Logo 600
JR 8717, 8900G
Futaba R6014FS
Mikado V-Bar
Zippy Flightmax 15C 5s x 2 (10s) 5000mAh
Kontronix Jazz 55-10-32
Scorpion 4025-630
NHP 620mm (Main)
NHP 100mm (Tail)
SG ReactorX
10t Pinon 106t Main (Mod 1.0)
2000rpm Headspeed
Weight (RTF): 3.66kg

Radio
Futaba 12MZ

Maneuvers
Wheel of Fortune (2.5K)
Sustained Chaos (1.5K)
Singapore Sling 09 (2.5K)
Snake (1.5K)
1.5K Autorotation

Placing for Round 1
International: 2nd
Singapore: 1st

Friday, September 4, 2009

Flybarless Hero goes Flybar with Avant Aurora


Daniel Jetschin Aurora from oli m on Vimeo.

Never thought I'll see the day, but here's Daniel Jetschin - the guy that was instrumental in establishing the Mikado V-Bar among hardcore 3D pilots, put back on the flybar with some awesome pitch-pumping, blade farting, heart-stopping maneuvers on the Avant Aurora..

Does that mean he's not with Mikado anymore? Is he done with flybarless and the Mikado V-Bar? I'm not sure, but it sure looks like it! See this piece of news about Daniel Jetschin's jump to Avant

On Location Taiwan - F3A Combined Asia Oceanic Continental Championships (CAOCC) 2008

On Location Japan - Narita F3A Training Site

Singapore National Aeromodelling Championships 2009

Walkera 4G6 Nano-sized 3D Helicopter with Torque Tube Tail Drive!



Funnels, Flips, Inverted Flight all in your living room? Well, you can with this 70 gram nano heli if you have a big enough room!

Some Details:
WALKERA 4G6 6CH Metal Upgrade Brushless Helicopter RTF - 2.4GHz

Specifications:
  • Main Rotor Dia.: 302mm
  • Tail Rotor Dia.: 80mm
  • Overall Length: 270mm
  • Main Motor Type: WK-WS-12-003
  • ESC: WK-WST-10A-L
  • Radio: WK-2602
Package Includes:
  • 4G6 helicopter
  • 6Ch Transmitter (WK-2602)
  • Li-Po Battery Charger
  • 3.7V 400mAh Li-Po Battery

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Ground School - Li-po (Lithium Polymer) Battery Guide For Dummies

If you want a quick no-nonsense guide to Li-polymer batteries, look no further! From what cell voltages mean to why they bloat to charging advice, make your lipos last!

What Does The Advertised "C" Rating Say?
Nothing you should trust!  From what I can tell, 30C just means that if you discharge that pack at 30C, it'll last 20 cycles - not what most people want.

Other than that, you can multiply the C Rating by the mAh of the pack to get the Amps the pack is advertised to give without blowing up (at least for the 1st 20 cycles or so). So a 30C 2300mAh pack gives 30 times 2.3A. That equals to 69amps. For those that didn't catch it, it's 2.3A because 1000 mAh = 1A.

What Does Cell Voltages Say 
2.8v - Dangerously low, charge with caution (i.e. Slowly... and stop if the pack starts heating up!)
3.4v - The lowest you want to get when flying around.
3.7v - Nominal voltage, 25% capacity left - Good voltage to stop flying at.
3.9v - Whoa... we're half way there... whoa-oh! Living on a prayer!
4.1v - 85% Capacity - Good voltage to charge up to for fast charge.
4.2v - 100% Capacity - Takes a lot more time to charge up to compared to 4.1v!

What Does Pack Temperatures Say (In Celsius)
30 to 50 degrees - Good, batteries will last at least 100 cycles or more.
51 to 60 degrees - Cookin it a little, it'll last 50 to 100 cycles...
61 to 70 degrees - Fryin it now..., with luck you'll get 20 to 40 cycles...
> 71 degrees - Are you nuts?

When I say last, that means the pack isn't bloating/puffing/inflating dangerously and you have at least 75% of the advertised mAh when you charge to 4.2 volts (full charge) and discharge to 2.8v.

Why Does My Lipos Heat Up When Used?
In short, because of Internal Resistance (IR). IR is what makes your packs less "powerful" because more power is converted to heat than useful motion (i.e. Turning your motor). The lower the IR of a pack, the higher a discharge rate it can handle without overheating and without the voltage dropping too much.

Heat Kills Li-Po
So arrange for as much airflow as you can over your batteries during flight, and/or keep your flight times less, so batteries don't heat up too much over time. You can also try changing your propeller (for airplanes) and main gear ratio (for helicopters) to something that has less load on the power system. That usually means smaller less pitch props and less head-speed respectively.

Batteries Get Soft Without Use
Batteries are like human muscles... if you don't exercise them they get sloppy, but if you over work them, they get burnt out... however unlike humans, batteries don't regenerate after some rest... (i.e. once their internal resistance (IR) gets raised from over discharge/over temperature, they stay raised, high resistance = less power, more heat, less capacity)

More About Internal Resistance (IR)
The most obvious sign that your batteries IR got higher due to damage is bloating, however, IR also get's higher the more cycles you put on the battery and for that, if it's a good battery, you won't find any bloat even though the IR gets higher!

I Wanna Charge At 2C (Or Higher)!
Sure! But the last time I tried that, my packs lifespan seemed to get halved. They could hold less than 75% of capacity after 50 cycles... When in doubt, 1C is nice.

About Deans & Bullet Connectors
High amps have a habit of de-soldering connectors off batteries in flight!
 Up to 55amps - Deans Connectors
> 55amps - Use 4mm, 5.5mm or 5mm bullet connectors please!
 Note that if your soldering sucks, it doesn't matter what connector you use... get it soldered properly!

Why do my Lipos Puff/Bloat/Inflate
 3 Main Reasons:
  1. Over discharge - Used to much mAh and/or discharged at too high amps, heat build-up
  2. Over charge - Put in too much mAh during charging
  3. Defective Pack - Usually means impurities are present in the batteries chemistry