Wednesday, September 23, 2009

VBar Auto Trimming For The Impatient

Here's a quick and dirty 10 step VBar Autotrim Guide:
  1. Check the Autotrim Activate box in the VStabi 4.0 Software
  2. Turn on Transmitter and set Collective Stick to Full Up
  3. Turn on your Heli (Make sure you have Throttle Hold on to prevent your heli from spooling up!!)
  4. After the initial power-up twitch, your blades will pitch up and down twice to confirm that the VBar is in Autotrim mode.
  5. Set Collective Stick to Middle (Do not bring it any further down - Down Collective signals to the VBar that you have completed the Autotrim and turns off Autotrim)
  6. Put your heli out in the flying field and ready for take off (Make sure that there is little or no wind for accurate Autotrimming)
  7. Spool up (Turn off Throttle Hold) and take-off into a nice hover at Eye Level (Any lower and ground effect could throw off your autotrim.) Your headspeed during autotrimming should be what you normally fly at.
  8. Keep your heli in a hover at the same spot and altitude for at least 60 seconds. Try not to input any drastic stick movements during this time, keep it smooth with as little stick movements as possible. Have a few seconds (2 to 4 seconds each time should be enough) here and there during your flight where you do not move the sticks at all and let the heli drift a little.
  9. Gently land. Once the heli spools down, set Collective to Full Down to signal to the VBar that your autotrim flight has ended. Power off your Heli.
  10. Connect VBar to your PC/Laptop, load up VStabi 4.0 Software and confirm that the Traffic Light in Autotrim has turned Green and uncheck Activate box. You'll have to do it again if it's a red or yellow light. Congrats! You have completed Auto-Trimming of your VBar!
Note that you'll have to get your heli's CG right at your main shaft for the Auto-Trimming to work well.

As usual if things does not work right the 1st time, try again, but double checking that you have all the steps nailed each time your try. Once you're done, you'll be rewarded a very nice flying flybarless heli!

Best Hard 3D Flight on a Flybarless 90-sized Nitro Yet!

Test 1

Test 2

Alan Szabo Jr does his flybarless magic on a Trex 700 in Taiwan...

Some details on his setup:
Align 91HZ Engine
Align 90 Pipe
Align DS610 Cyclic Servos
Align DS650 Tail Servo
Align 690D Blades

Looks like the Align Flybarless and the Curtis Youngblood Total G are the Flybarless systems to watch out this coming year!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Flybarless for beginners? Nice, but you might need help...

I can only speak about Mikado Vbar/VStabi and Gyrobot (both I have used or personally know people using extensively)

For Flying
Flybarless is better at:
  1. Inverted flying
  2. Flying in strong winds
  3. Flying high speeds
  4. Flipping and rolling
  5. More power/flight time (more efficient by at least 10%)
(Assuming you have a properly installed flybarless system) Flybarless is better cause it's definitely more stable that a heli with flybar and tends to roll and flip on axis better (i.e. doesn't drift away as much).

For Crash Repairs and Heli Maintenance
Flybarless saves time and money because you don't need to (remove), buy and tune:
  1. Flybar
  2. Flybar paddles
  3. Flybar seesaw
  4. 2 more pairs of linkages that connect your blades to the flybar system.
I hate adjusting linkages!!! Flybar heads has 6 linkages, flybarless has only 2 - yay!

For Installation and Testing:
Flybarless systems are easy, but only if you like working with electronics (and maybe PCs/Laptops) to set it up. You'll also have to have a sound understanding of these:
  1. Gyros and Gyro Sensors
  2. The Swashpate and how it affects your blades in flight
The new Mikado Vbar Homepage has a whole bunch of great videos to show you all you need. I made a Quick 20 Step Guide for Dummies here.

Less Time Repairing, More Time Flying
After the ground jumps up and grabs my heli (the only reason why I crash :P), on my Logo 600, it takes only 5 mins to setup the linkages and head again, for my Klone 50 with flybar, it can take 30 minutes or more (depending how much I have to wrestle with the bent flybar that can't come out) So if you're a busy guy with cash to invest in a Vbar or Gyrobot, it kinda makes sense...

The Piro Question
Some people (including me!) have noted that flybarless systems feels harder to nail pirouetting maneuvers (e.g. Piro Flips) But since I switched to VBar V4.0, it seems alright now. I have seen others that were on the flybar get on VBar 4.0 and perform piro loops, flips and tic-tocs - no problemo.

Make Your Heli Fly - The Way You Want It
Flybarless systems make it easier to tweak and tune the cyclic response and collective pitch of you heli. Make your collectively really pop or have a blazing fast roll rate. On the other hand, you can make it as gentle as a baby's ass (ok, bad analogy), simply adjust the numbers on the screen! For flybar heads, you have to adjust mixing ratios (mechanically) and try different types of costly paddles - bleah!

A New Hope
Since 2009, with the Mikado VBar V4.0, and Gyrobot, Flybarless systems are much easier to setup. With the VBar, you'll have to like to use a PC/Laptop to set it up (and you can save different setups to a file for backup or share with others). The Gyrobot comes with it's own programming box, so in that sense it's easier to setup and (PC setup is optional).

Summary
For most beginners (heli geniuses excluded), get a dude that knows how to setup and fly flybarless systems to help you. For the pros and experienced guys, it's exciting to try flybarless, for it is a whole new experience...

For additional notes on the battle between Flybar and Flybarless you can take a look at this and here for more of my notes on flybarless.

Hope this helps!

Monday, September 14, 2009

Flight School Part 5 - Flips & Rolls

Finally! Some aerobatics! If you have been following this Flight School, Parts 1 to 4 were hardly 3D aerobatics, in fact it feels far from it. But fret no more, now we're gonna get our hands dirty in some beginnings of 3D RC Helicopter aerobatics.

Be warned however, if you haven't got the skills the previous lessons mentioned, it would be kinda risky for your heli. Due to the demands of 3D aerobatic flight, your heli would have to be pretty well setup and maintained, loose/worn-out parts and/or tail not holding when doing aerobatics could spell disaster... However, if you have what it takes you'll find aerobatics on your heli extremely rewarding.

What's the difference between a Flip and a Roll?
OK, to some the answer's obvious, but just to be sure.... Both of them use cyclic controls, just that Flips use the elevator and Rolls use the aileron as the primary cyclic control to accomplish the maneuver. Other than that, the are pretty similar to me, both need good timing and collective management to pull off nicely.

Why do I want to learn Flips and Rolls?
Other than obvious reasons and personal reasons you may or may not have. I believe skills in backward flight and flips and rolls would establish a very good foundation for going into inverted flight/maneuvers. The main reason being, if something good wrong when attempting inverted stuff, you need to quickly roll/flip back to upright flight and when that happens in a hurry/panic, your heli might actually be flying backwards! The the reason why this Flight School teaches hovering in all orientations, backward flight and flips/rolls on that order before teaching anything inverted.

Myth-busters
A common complain is that "My heli drifts whenever it rolls". The drifting here means that it does not roll on axis, somehow it seems that some elevator and/or rudder is mixed into the roll. Here's the myth-buster - most helis, would "drift" a little no matter how good the setup. Some purist would say the drift can extremely little (imperceptible?) if you would mix out the interaction on the swash-plate, adjust phasing and/or mix your throttle with aileron, elevator and rudder inputs. But all this is for another discussion altogether, Google them if you need to satisfy your thirst for knowledge. What I'm tying to say is, you don't need a perfect (or close to perfect) setup to have some fun with 3D flying, you just need a reasonably good setup, the rest is up to your thumbs/fingers - you need to be in control of the heli throughout the maneuver to keep it on track!

The Setup
I like a linear pitch curve on the Collective, have at least 9 degrees for max up collective and at least -9 degrees for your max down collective. I like to have +/-11 to 13 degrees, but you'll need good collective management skills to avoid bogging your head-speed dangerously.

For your Cyclics (Alieron and Elevator) try to make it such that it takes about half a second to one second to roll/flip to inverted from a hover. To adjust the speed of your roll/flip, you'll need to adjust your cyclic pitch and/or paddles and maybe even lighter main blades to speed things up on the cyclics. For paddles, the lighter, the faster your cyclic response will be. Cyclic pitch of +/- 5 degrees to +/- 8 degrees should be fine for most helis.

You'll need a good holding-hold Gyro and Tail Setup for 3D your tail must be able to hold it's heading when punching in Collective and Cyclics, though as mentioned above, don't expect the hold to be perfect, it can wag a little, provided a) the wag does not get worse over time and b) the tail quickly moves back to it's intended position after the little wag.

The Drill
I'll like to think flips are like throwing a stick in the air. You'll give it a boost upwards (from gravity) just as the stick leaves your hand, nudge it so it starts to rotate. The stick should flip in mid-air, as the stick falls back to earth, catch it. If you timed your throw and the stick's rotation nicely, your stick would flip in the air and you'll catch it after it performs a complete flip.

That's essentially what you are trying to do with your heli in a Flip. The Collective gives the heli the initial boost up, then nudge it with your Elevator to perform the Flip. Once Flip has gone one complete round, catch it with your Collective to halt your RC helicopter's fall to earth.

Well, that's an easy way to look at it... unlike the stick in which you have do control once it leaves your hand, as your heli performs the Flip and comes around to inverted (half way point of the complete flip), you'll want to add some negative/down collective to minimize loss of altitude when performing the Flip. Would like to mention at this point, you need to be smooth and gentle with the sticks, especially the Collective, input only what you need and slowly if you're not sure. Just make sure you have enough altitude for mistakes, hesitations and recovery.

You goal when practicing Flips and Rolls should be to maintain your
  1. Altitude (Stay at the same height)
  2. Heading (Point the same direction)
  3. Position (Stay the the same position relative to the ground)
The above takes a combination of good heli setup and good timing on your sticks to perform well.

SIM-ple beats the Hard Ground
Please practice on your Simulator before going ahead with this with your heli. Make sure you and do it without much thinking and you'll do fine with your heli at the field. However, if you have an agenda against Simulators or are Simulator-challenged. Visualize it in your head as you move your transmitter sticks, it's not as accurate as the Sim, but it's better than nothing.

Getting Better Now...
You can learn a Flip or Roll first, that's up to your preference, but you'll need to master both reasonably well before attempting anything more advanced. Always remember to learn both ways, meaning roll right, roll left and flip forward and flip backwards.

Universal Orientation
It's tempting to just master an aerobatic maneuver one way and move on, however, that'll be building on shaky foundations. Do try your Flips (Forwards & Backwards) and Rolls (Left & Right) nose-in/out, nose-left/right. If you really want to be complete, you can also do all that at different altitudes (E.g. Way up high in the sky and too low for comfort) they feel different.

That's all for now, stay tuned for Part 6 - Inverted Flight. Meanwhile, have a flippin' rollin' good time!

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Mikado Logo 600 Flybarless Electric Tips

From Mikado Logo 600
Important Tips
My Logo 600 main blade grip bolts were bending when I was running it at about 2200 (as in they got deformed) had to change mine to Titanium Main Grip Bolts from Hirobo (I believe they were for 60 sized Hirobo helis). I also had a few bolts in my kit that were bent/deformed even before using them! That would lead me to believe that the quality of the bolts supplied may be not as good, so please check.

The tail grip bolts (the ones that screw into the hub) are relatively small, make sure you replace them (and also the hub) if you suspect that they have taken any knocks or stress. And when you do, put as much blue threadlock (without overflowing it to the bearings/washers!) on the bolts before screwing it in. Also, use only Blue Threadlock as they work though oil and grease. As an added precaution, you may clean the threads in the tail hub to remove excess oil present during manufacturing.

Essentially, you'll notice that the tail parts are a little tiny compared to the rest of the heli, so extra precautions on the tail are always good. Other than that, most would agree that the Mikado's tail unit gives very good response and perfomance.

Securing the Tail Boom is important, you'll need to make sure that the bolts (4 of them) on both ends of the boom (the main frame end and the tail assembly end) are tightened sufficiently. After tightening, expect to have to re-tighten them again after a flight or two. Once the airframe is sufficiently broken-in you'll need to re-tighten the bolts less often.

Cyclic Servo Horns: I'll stick to the JR Super Horns made of good plastic (Nylon). Metal and carbon fiber horns tend to destroy other parts of your heli during un-planned landings. For example, I rather my Servo Horn breaking (< $1) rather than my Swash-Plate (> $100) (happened to me once!)

My Setup
Headspeed: 2050rpm (Governed by Kontronix Jazz, use a tacho to get it right!)
Main Blades: NHP Razor Pro 620mm (Carbon Fiber)
Tail Blades: NHP 100mm (97mm not as good, 105mm kinda too long)
Motor: Scorpion 4025-630 KV
Pinon: 10T Mod 1.0
Main Gear: 105T Mod 1.0
ESC: Kontronix Jazz 55-10-32
Batteries: Zippy 5s 5000mAh 15C x 2 (in series to make 10s)
Connectors: 6mm Gold Plated Bullets
Receiver: Futaba R6014FS 2.4GHz FASST 14-Channel
Cyclic Servos: JR 8717
Tail Servo: JR 8900G
Gyro: Mikado V-Bar V4.0
Weight: 3.66kg (RTF) 

Flight Times & Smart Li-poly Battery Management Techniques
Flight Time: Max 10mins, I do 6mins flights for safety (less stress on the batteries and you can quick charge them to 4.1v per cell - about 85% capacity - in almost 1/2 the time of a full 4.2v per cell charge!)

Chargers: 2 x Hyperion 0610i NET (Charges from 3.7v per cell - 25% capacity - to 4.1v per cell - 85% capacity - in 30mins with only 1C charge rate! Read - Faster charge + long battery life = more flights + less $$$ + more joy)

VStabi Settings
Here's the juicy part - my Logo 600 Hard 3D VBar/VStabi Parameter file for download - helidaniel-logo600-12jun09.vbr (right-click and Save As). Bear in mind that you have to adjust the trims and endpoints and possibly servo reverse to suit your heli's electronics and linkage setup. Also, don't forget to check your gyro sensor direction.

Here's a Quick and Dirty VBar Guide

Here's a video on how the Logo 600 setup flies

I hope that your Logo 600 flies very well, do drop me a comment or email (daniel@helidaniel.com) I'll do my best to respond.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Klone 50SE RFX File for RealFlight G4.5


 
RFX file for RealFlight G4.5 that looks and files like my Klone 50 with a Redline 53 Engine. The Gyro feels like my Solid-G with consistent piro rates.

Here's the download link (right-click and Save As):
Klone 50SE_EA.RFX

I'm a big fan of RealFlight because I don't have to configure my transmitter to connect to the Simulator and I have no worries of charging my transmitter battery after a sim session. On top of that, it has very realistic physics and graphics.

The model was based on a TRex 600N RFX File.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

O.S. 55-HZ vs Novarossi R57HR 3D (and now - vs YS 56) Video Shootout!

First up, we have Lukas Riva - 2008 3DX World Champion with the Novarossi R57HR 3D on a T-Rex 600N:

Nova Rossi 57
Output: 2.39ps @ 18500rpm
Weight: 14.99oz (425g)
Muffler: Novarossi Rex H5

On the other side of the ring, we have Bert Kammerer - 2nd place Align Cup Las Vegas 2008 flying the OS 55HZ also on a T-Rex 600N:

O.S. 55-HZ
Output: 2.1ps @ 17000rpm
Weight: 14.39oz (408g)
Muffler: New Hatori SAB-56

Verdict
Hmm... personally, I like the OS 55 flight better... but that's just my personal opinion - the choice is yours! Thanks to the excellent pilots that gave us this very nice demonstration of next-gen heli nitro engines!

Hope you enjoyed it, cheers!

THIS JUST IN
YS 56 on a Outrage Velocity 50 by Henry Caldwell @ IRCHA 2009

Henry Caldwell - IRCHA 2009 - Velocity 50 from Greg A on Vimeo.
YS 56
Weight: 406g
(From what I know, YS does not release output power ratings for their engines)

That was a great flight... but I'm still  a OS 55HZ fan. :)


Which New 50 Sized Engine is your Fav?

How To Fly A Raptor 50

Like this:


And like that:


Something's wrong with my heli, it doesn't fly like that! :P

The second video is a heavily modified Raptor 50. It involves:

a) Use of high-speed high-torque servos
b) Mechanical set up to increase collective speed (which trades off control resolution)
c) Cutting larger holes in the main frame to allow more collective tray movement
d) Lightening the collective tray by cutting away portions of it, to allow faster collective
e) Modification of aileron servo mount and levers to allow more aileron throw
f) Making your own fly-bar mixer arms and drilling new holes in the fly-bar seesaw to attach them. (To give better cyclic and collective response)

The first video is the newer Raptor 50 Titan SE which basically comes with new parts that does away with modification f), but it still has the slower and clumsier M-CCPM design that Rappys are afflicted with. To be fair with M-CCPM it's possibly harder to get it wrong during setup and that helps beginners... but it is a 12-year old design. People also mention that there is almost no "control interaction" with M-CCPM, but with modern electronics and servos that are properly setup, E-CCPM is the choice almost all serious 3D pilots make for serious 3D flying.

If you don't want to go through the pain and uncertainty of hacking away at your helicopter and want the advatages of an elegant E-CCPM system, I'll recommend the Klone 50 from Klone RC it's an OEM (read: low-cost) Raptor with E-CCPM allowing for lighting fast cyclics and +/- 12 degrees of collective right out of the box. The fact that it's at least 100 grams lighter than the Thunder Tiger Raptor 50 and features a full-metal head doesn't hurt either.

Now all I have to do is to make a video of my Klone 50 flying some 3D. :) Thanks for reading!

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Klone 50 Photo Gallery

3D Aeromuscials Peformed with Parkflyers/Foamies

This one's for Singapore's National Day 2008



...and this one's for Singapore's National Day 2007

F3P Practice Indoors with the Clik



Having some F3P fun in an indoor badminton hall. The Clik here weighs an amazing 130grams RTF with battery!

F3A Flights by Daniel



Aircraft: Altair 200 - Electric Conversion
Schedule: FAI P-09
Location: Sultan of JB Palace Grounds



Aircraft: Sebart Angel S 50
Schedule: FAI P-09
Location: Radio Modellers Singapore (RMS) Field

3DX Singapore 2009 Round 2 (Freestyle) - Daniel Sim



Aircraft
Klone RC Klone 50
Futaba 9403, 9251
Futaba R608FS FASST
CY Solid-G
Cool Power 30%
CY ATG
OS 50SX-H
Klone RC 600mm (Main)
CY 95mm (Tail)
PowerBox Digi-Switch
2000rpm Headspeed

Radio
Futaba 12MZ

Placing for Round 2
International: 11th
Singapore: 2nd

3DX Singapore 2009 Round 1(Set Maneuvers) - Daniel Sim



Aircraft
Mikado Logo 600
JR 8717, 8900G
Futaba R6014FS
Mikado V-Bar
Zippy Flightmax 15C 5s x 2 (10s) 5000mAh
Kontronix Jazz 55-10-32
Scorpion 4025-630
NHP 620mm (Main)
NHP 100mm (Tail)
SG ReactorX
10t Pinon 106t Main (Mod 1.0)
2000rpm Headspeed
Weight (RTF): 3.66kg

Radio
Futaba 12MZ

Maneuvers
Wheel of Fortune (2.5K)
Sustained Chaos (1.5K)
Singapore Sling 09 (2.5K)
Snake (1.5K)
1.5K Autorotation

Placing for Round 1
International: 2nd
Singapore: 1st

Friday, September 4, 2009

Flybarless Hero goes Flybar with Avant Aurora


Daniel Jetschin Aurora from oli m on Vimeo.

Never thought I'll see the day, but here's Daniel Jetschin - the guy that was instrumental in establishing the Mikado V-Bar among hardcore 3D pilots, put back on the flybar with some awesome pitch-pumping, blade farting, heart-stopping maneuvers on the Avant Aurora..

Does that mean he's not with Mikado anymore? Is he done with flybarless and the Mikado V-Bar? I'm not sure, but it sure looks like it! See this piece of news about Daniel Jetschin's jump to Avant

On Location Taiwan - F3A Combined Asia Oceanic Continental Championships (CAOCC) 2008

On Location Japan - Narita F3A Training Site

Singapore National Aeromodelling Championships 2009

Walkera 4G6 Nano-sized 3D Helicopter with Torque Tube Tail Drive!



Funnels, Flips, Inverted Flight all in your living room? Well, you can with this 70 gram nano heli if you have a big enough room!

Some Details:
WALKERA 4G6 6CH Metal Upgrade Brushless Helicopter RTF - 2.4GHz

Specifications:
  • Main Rotor Dia.: 302mm
  • Tail Rotor Dia.: 80mm
  • Overall Length: 270mm
  • Main Motor Type: WK-WS-12-003
  • ESC: WK-WST-10A-L
  • Radio: WK-2602
Package Includes:
  • 4G6 helicopter
  • 6Ch Transmitter (WK-2602)
  • Li-Po Battery Charger
  • 3.7V 400mAh Li-Po Battery

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Ground School - Li-po (Lithium Polymer) Battery Guide For Dummies

If you want a quick no-nonsense guide to Li-polymer batteries, look no further! From what cell voltages mean to why they bloat to charging advice, make your lipos last!

What Does The Advertised "C" Rating Say?
Nothing you should trust!  From what I can tell, 30C just means that if you discharge that pack at 30C, it'll last 20 cycles - not what most people want.

Other than that, you can multiply the C Rating by the mAh of the pack to get the Amps the pack is advertised to give without blowing up (at least for the 1st 20 cycles or so). So a 30C 2300mAh pack gives 30 times 2.3A. That equals to 69amps. For those that didn't catch it, it's 2.3A because 1000 mAh = 1A.

What Does Cell Voltages Say 
2.8v - Dangerously low, charge with caution (i.e. Slowly... and stop if the pack starts heating up!)
3.4v - The lowest you want to get when flying around.
3.7v - Nominal voltage, 25% capacity left - Good voltage to stop flying at.
3.9v - Whoa... we're half way there... whoa-oh! Living on a prayer!
4.1v - 85% Capacity - Good voltage to charge up to for fast charge.
4.2v - 100% Capacity - Takes a lot more time to charge up to compared to 4.1v!

What Does Pack Temperatures Say (In Celsius)
30 to 50 degrees - Good, batteries will last at least 100 cycles or more.
51 to 60 degrees - Cookin it a little, it'll last 50 to 100 cycles...
61 to 70 degrees - Fryin it now..., with luck you'll get 20 to 40 cycles...
> 71 degrees - Are you nuts?

When I say last, that means the pack isn't bloating/puffing/inflating dangerously and you have at least 75% of the advertised mAh when you charge to 4.2 volts (full charge) and discharge to 2.8v.

Why Does My Lipos Heat Up When Used?
In short, because of Internal Resistance (IR). IR is what makes your packs less "powerful" because more power is converted to heat than useful motion (i.e. Turning your motor). The lower the IR of a pack, the higher a discharge rate it can handle without overheating and without the voltage dropping too much.

Heat Kills Li-Po
So arrange for as much airflow as you can over your batteries during flight, and/or keep your flight times less, so batteries don't heat up too much over time. You can also try changing your propeller (for airplanes) and main gear ratio (for helicopters) to something that has less load on the power system. That usually means smaller less pitch props and less head-speed respectively.

Batteries Get Soft Without Use
Batteries are like human muscles... if you don't exercise them they get sloppy, but if you over work them, they get burnt out... however unlike humans, batteries don't regenerate after some rest... (i.e. once their internal resistance (IR) gets raised from over discharge/over temperature, they stay raised, high resistance = less power, more heat, less capacity)

More About Internal Resistance (IR)
The most obvious sign that your batteries IR got higher due to damage is bloating, however, IR also get's higher the more cycles you put on the battery and for that, if it's a good battery, you won't find any bloat even though the IR gets higher!

I Wanna Charge At 2C (Or Higher)!
Sure! But the last time I tried that, my packs lifespan seemed to get halved. They could hold less than 75% of capacity after 50 cycles... When in doubt, 1C is nice.

About Deans & Bullet Connectors
High amps have a habit of de-soldering connectors off batteries in flight!
 Up to 55amps - Deans Connectors
> 55amps - Use 4mm, 5.5mm or 5mm bullet connectors please!
 Note that if your soldering sucks, it doesn't matter what connector you use... get it soldered properly!

Why do my Lipos Puff/Bloat/Inflate
 3 Main Reasons:
  1. Over discharge - Used to much mAh and/or discharged at too high amps, heat build-up
  2. Over charge - Put in too much mAh during charging
  3. Defective Pack - Usually means impurities are present in the batteries chemistry

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Ground School - Mikado V-Bar/V-Stabi Setup Guide for Dummies

I have had about 200 flights with the Mikado V-Bar/V-Stabi on my Logo 600, based on that experience and the numerous times I've help others setup their V-Bar, I hope that this will be one of the quickest guide to setup V-Bar/V-Stabi 4.0 on your RC Helicopter.
  1. Make sure you are using at least version 4.0 (upgrade at the Mikado Store if not)
  2. Install VBar/VStabi V4.0 software on your PC (Laptop is preferred so you can tweak V-Bar at the flying field)
  3. Take a look at the V-Bar presets for different helicopters, choose the one that matches yours as close as possible.
  4. Make sure your servos for cyclics and tail are equivalent specifications to the ones shown in the V-Bar preset you choose.
  5. Install V-Bar and Servos on your Heli (See Vbar Sensor Mounting Video - Right-Click and Save As to download)
  6. Load the preset you chose for your heli in Step 3.
  7. Use Subtrim on your Radio to zero out the TX Calibration in the Setup section of the VStabi Software.
  8. Make sure mechanically things are as neutral as possible. This normally means leveling your swash and making sure that blade pitch is 0 degrees when the servo horns are at the middle of their total travel. i.e. at neutral)
  9. Do Rudder Adjustments to make sure Rudder gets as much deflection both ways without binding.
  10. Check that swash moves the right way with aileron and elevator controls. (Reverse servos accordingly)
  11. Level your swash and check that swash moves right way with collective inputs.
  12. Check that swash  moves the right way when you tilt the heli back and forth, right and left. (Vbar should move the swash to oppose your tilt)
  13. Maiden your VBar-ed heli.
  14. Do the Auto-Trim thingy (See: Vbar Auto Trim Flight Video - Right-Click and Save As to download)
  15. Want more elevator and/or aileron control (i.e. flip/roll faster)? Increase Agility setting (Under Main Rotor)
  16. Want more punch on the Collective? Increase Collective setting (note that for most values, you may enter a value higher than the slider allows - simply type in the number you want. However understand that too high values could crash your heli, so increase a little at a time and within reasonable bounds)
  17. Tail not holding tight enough? Increase Gyro Gain (Under Tail Rotor) by 2 each time until Tail starts to oscillate quickly during forward flight (faster flight is better for testing).
  18. Heli feels unstable? Increase Gyro Gain (Under Main Rotor) by 2 each time until Main Rotor starts to oscillate quickly during forward flight (faster flight is better for testing).
  19. Set your rudder rotation speed (i.e. piro rate) with your transmitters Dual-Rate/AFR setting. (Make it less than 100% accordingly)
  20. For any issues or more details, search the offical vstabi/vbar forums here - http://www.vstabi.de/ and the wiki here - http://vstabi.de/wiki/index.php?title=Hauptseite - The setup videos at http://www.vstabi.de/V4/index_e.html really help too!
VBar Auto Trimming For The Impatient
Step 14 mentions the Auto Trim Thingy. Here's a quick and dirty 10 step VBar Autotrim Guide
    It's A Beautiful World
    I personally think that flybarless is a great technology that will help many pilots enjoy the hobby/sport more, simply because it's kinda easier to setup (once you get the hang of it - no more tinkering with paddles, flybars and seesaws!) and easier to learn inverted flight on (Inverted, flybarless helis are way more stable that most helis with flybars)

    Ease Into Flybarless
    If you are from the flybar camp trying out flybarless, do understand that it feels different and you'll need time to get used to it before enjoying the benefits of flybarless. Some comment that take-offs and landings are more tricky on flybarless - and I agree! However, you'll find that your stall turns and loops go way higher than ever before cause there's less drag without the flybar.

    Less Pitch Gauge Fiddling
    One last thing, if you're from the flybar camp, note that your pitch gauge has a lesser role to play with flybar-less systems. The measurement for cyclic pitch is not a good measurement of how fast your cyclics will be, cause the flybar-less gyro controls cyclic speed. Instead, just use the pitch gauge to ensure that the pitch is equal for both up and down pitch and to measure how much collective pitch you have.

    That's all for this Vbar/Vstabi guide. For some more thoughts on flybarless that a look at -  Ground School - Flybarless - Good for Beginners, Not So Good For Advanced Flyers

    Remember to enjoy each flight and take care!

    Sunday, August 23, 2009

    Life With The Klone 50 - Part 1 - Introduction

    The Klone 50 was a gift from MockingbirdRC.com for participation in the Singapore National 2009 3DX competition. Over the last 4 months I've been really enjoying the Klone 50 - it's fast, light, aggressive, easy to build, repair and easy on the wallet. To top it off, it can do any 3D maneuver in the book (or at least in my book!)

    I have about 100 flights on my Klone 50, and people have commented how new it looks still. Despite it's low cost, the parts have hardly any slop after all the 3D flying. Getting up to 15 flights on one gallon of 20% to 30% nitro doesn't hurt either!

    To summarize what the Klone 50 is in one line - It's an all-out 3D heli fully-blinged (all the metal parts you'll ever need) out of the box that features low-cost spare parts and mean looks.

    To honest it's not a completely new design, a number of parts are similar to the Raptor 50. However, it's completely new where it counts - An eCCPM full-metal head and carbon servo and front frames. It has +/- 12 degrees on the collective and is a full 100 to 200 grams lighter than typical Raptor variant/conversion. In other words, it has the agility and stellar power-to-weight ratio a Raptor would find very hard to match.

    Want to see it close and personal? Here's a build video posted by nwolsink:


    There are nice hi-res photos of the Klone 50 mechanics on this thread:
    http://runryder.com/helicopter/t523575p1/

    That's all for today, gotta run! Stay tuned for more updates! I'll be doing a Klone 50 3D flyin video soon...

    Wednesday, August 19, 2009

    Girl Band Dancing on a Heli Pad



    Inspiration for fellow RC Helicopter Pilots that had one to many crashes!

    Tuesday, August 18, 2009

    Ground School - How To Hold The Transmitter Sticks

    What's the best way? Today we'll be talking about holding the transmitter sticks for 3D Flying. Welcome to HeliDaniel.com Ground School - Where discuss tips on RC Helicopter Setup (i.e. Things you should know before you takeoff your heli.).

    This Is How We Do It
    Well start off with an excellent Mode 2 (Collective and Rudder on Left Stick) example by Daniel Jetschin of Team Mikado:



    Note that if you just started RC Heli flying, it could be quite a while before you work the sticks like that (without sacrificing your heli - See Gentle Is Good below).

    Next, we'll take a look at another two awesome examples Alan Szabo and Bobby Watts:




    As you can see, almost all the pros hold the sticks with their thumbs and index fingers. I started just using thumbs, but switched to thumbs and index after a few scary slips - so pinching your sticks is very highly recommended.

    An Awesome Thumber
    But if you are a thumb fan here's the 2008 3D Masters Winner Lucas Riva working with thumbs only:



    If you were very attentive, you'll note that Lucas has his collective reversed! Pushing the stick up makes his heli go down (when upright)!

    Mode 2 or 1 - The Choice Is Yours!
    Now, why I only have good examples of Mode 2 stick work? Well, I could only find these fine examples, but I'm sure there are many good Mode 1 pilots out there too! But I'm a mode 2 flyer too - the choice is yours! ;)

    Gentle Is Good
    Okay, now we're all excited about some serious stick banging, but before we get rough, we need a little gentle touch first. Take a look at the videos again - this time zoom in on the parts where they aren't banging on the sticks, typically when there's a pause or a section of fast flight, you'll note that unless we want the heli to really turn on a dime, we really need to move the sticks a little only - especially the collective! Since the collective governs the lift your heli needs to avoid the ground, learning to be on top of your collective is key!

    Exponetial Expo-sed
    In my opinion, using expo on your transmitter is not critical on most helis - but it definitely helps to smooth things out! I normally use -15 to -25% expo (the values will be positive for JR radios) for the Cyclics (aileron and elevator) and anywhere from 0% to -45% on the rudder (it really depends on your gyro!) For the rudder I try to get it such that a small movement on the rudder stick will get a corresponding small change in rotation rate for most of the stick travel. In other words, I don't want a drastic change in yaw rotation rate when I just push the stick a little more. For the Cyclics, I find that some expo will help to make the hover and flying around more locked-in by making the controls less sensitive in the center - incidentally it also helps to lessen the cross-control issue most of us face - for example when you move the aileron left and right, most of us will tend to nudge the stick a little up and down too, expo helps to lessen it's effect. Of course it's best to train your fingers till robotic precision so that no cross-control happens, but who are we kidding?

    SIM-plify Your Learning
    Practice practice practice on your Simulator before all else, you'll save heaps of cash that you'll miss otherwise. Though it may get boring for some, there's no quicker or easier way for a start. Experiment with different ways to hold your sticks and see which way you like best and get used to it. Make your decision carefully or you'll find it very frustrating to change later!

    I'll leave you with a cute line - We bang sticks on the tranny, and not our helis on the tarmac.

    Wren 44 Turbine on a T-Rex 700






    I love the sound of the turbine! Good if you have £2750 to spare for the system.

    Some Specs:
    Power 5KW (6.8hp) - Double the power of an OS 91HZ!
    Diameter 86mm (core engine)
    Length 305mm (12in)
    Engine Weight 1320g (46oz)
    Ancillaries Weight 250g (8.5oz)
    Gearbox RPM range 4000 - 15000 RPM
    http://wrenturbines.co.uk/engines/helicopter/44helicopter

    Photos of a lucky guy and his Trex 700 turbine:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/laurent_cluzel/tags/wren/

    Monday, August 17, 2009

    Flight School Part 4 - Backwards Circuits

    Welcome to Part 4 of HeliDaniel.com's 3D RC Helicopter Flying School.

    Why Backwards Circuits?

    I was about to go into Flips and Rolls but after a bit of reflection, I believe it's safer to learn a little Backwards Circuits first. Why? Cause if anything goes wrong during rolls and flips, there's a chance your heli might end up flying backwards at speed. In such a case, skills in maneuvering your heli while flying backwards will come very handy indeed....

    Building On What You Already Know!

    I'll bet that if you have been hovering around, learning how to fly you heli, you'll already know how to fly you heli backwards. That's because whenever you do a tail-in hover and your heli drifts out, you'll have to bring it back by flying backwards! We'll build on that then, and extend your backward flight a little at a time.

    Your First Backwards Turn
    Steering your heli while flying backwards is the key here. Get your heli out in front of you (far enough so you can do a backwards turn later) while doing a tail-in hover and start bringing it back in by gaining some backward speed. Before it comes too near, you'll want to apply some aileron to bank it left or right (your preference) then apply some down elevator to turn your heli. For a start you might want to turn 90 degrees. That means your heli will be facing left or right when you're done (depending on which way you banked at the start). See Figure 4.1 below:


    Figure 4.1 - Your First Step in Backwards Flying

    Easy Tips for Easy Learning
    Remember to bank just a bit for a start, controlling your bank is key here, likewise for your application of elevator. Once you've finished with your 90 degree turn, you'll want stop the heli and get it into a hover once again. Keep practicing this and don't forget to turn both ways, once you get the hang of things, you can then move on to 180 degree turns.

    Sim-On!
    Once again, do practice all this on your Simulator first. Many times, learning to fly RC Heli is a trial and error process which you learn from. You decide which heli you want to sacrifice for your "journey of discovery" The free virtual heli or your costly real heli.

    Getting Better
    For 180 degrees, continue the turn all the way till your heli's facing nose-in. (You'll definitely want to be good at your nose-in hover first!) Then stop into a nose-in hover. If you feel confident you'll continue your backwards turn to 270 degress or even a full round! Take it at your own pace, enjoy the thrill and don't rush things.

    The Grand Finale!
    Once you can turn a full round (both left and right) you'll want to start making Backwards Figure 8's. As Part 3 explains, join a 3/4 backwards turn on the left with a 3/4 backwards turn on the right with straight lines and viola! A Backwards Figure 8!

    Coming Up
    Okay... easier said then done, but I'm sure you'll thoroughly enjoy things once you get it. Keep your blades spinning and I'll see you for Part 5 - Flips and Rolls!

    Wednesday, August 5, 2009

    Ground School - Tail Setup for 3D Flying

    Welcome to HeliDaniel.com Ground School - Where discuss tips on RC Helicopter Setup. Today we'll be talking about Tail Setup for 3D Flying

    People have asked me how to start 3D flying on their heli, the first thing I'll check is their Tail Setup.

    Here's the bottom-line - if you want to do any form of 3D flying, you'll need an excellent Tail Setup.

    What's in a Tail Setup?

    Here's a list:
    1. Gyro
    2. Tail Servo
    3. Tail Pushrod and Guides
    4. Tail Bellcrank
    5. Tail Slider
    6. Tail Pitch Arms
    7. Tail Rotor Grips & Bearings
    8. Tail Rotor Blades
    First on the list is the gyro, needless to say you should have at least a reputable gyro that was designed for 3D flying that should be matched with a Tail Servo that's recommended to work with it. I'm not big at wasting money experimenting with Gyro/Tail Servo combos, so I just search the forums for combos that others have success with.

    Other that that, there are two other things to understand to have a great tail setup - Silky Smooth and Control Geometry

    Silky Smooth
    What you really need to do is to make sure that items 2 to 7 move with minimal resistance.

    How do yo test that? Remove the Tail Pushrod ball link at the servo end and move the push rod back and forth with your fingers, ideally the pushrod should slide back and forth almost effortlessly.

    Tail Servo - make sure that the horn, pushrod and ball link stay clear of each other throughout the servo's entire travel.

    Pushrod and Guides - Make it as straight as you can, adjust the guides (if any) to do that. The guides will have to stay put and not move around, use CA or stuff something (I like the tips of cable ties - just cut off the rest of the cable tie once you're done stuffing) between the guide and tail boom to secure it. Oil here helps keep it smooth.

    Items 4 to 7 - Check all ballinks, bearings and pivots make sure that they are are not too tight. A balllink sizer tool can be used to loosen ballinks. Check for screws that act as pivot points make sure that they are not too tight, use blue locktite to make sure that they don't come loose.

    Control Geometry
    Control Geometry varies slightly from heli to heli, but I'll just give some tips which I think would work well in most cases. Most helis will have a 5 to 10 degrees more Tail Blade Pitch in one direction than the other to counter torque produced by the Main Rotor.

    Depending on your Gyro, you may want to setup your control geometry in a way that the neutral has some Tail Blade Pitch or none at all, you'll have to do your own research here.

    Regardless of how you decide to setup your neutral Tail Blade Pitch, when at neutral, your Servo Horn should be right in the middle of it's total travel. Once you got that, you should make sure that there's no binding at the limits of your your Tail Servo Travel.

    You should setup it up so that you max out your Tail Pitch in both directions. Also, make sure that there is no chance of the tail mechanism jamming because of too much Tail Pitch.

    The distance between the Pushrod ballink and the servo horn center is another thing that can really affect the performance of your tail setup. I like to set it up so that the tail servo horn deflects about 45 degrees from it's neutral at max tail pitch in both directions. I believe that in most cases it's a good balance between maximizing your servo's resolution and tail control speed (the further out you put your ball link, the less the servo has to move to get to a particular tail pitch = faster response) Again, this varies from heli to heli, so you'll have to do your own research and tests.

    Belts/Tubes and Blades
    I consider belts and torque tubes more on side of drive systems rather than tail setup, but since it can affect your tail performance, here's some tips.

    Belts - Generally don't make it too tight or too lose, follow manufacturer's instructions best you can. Too tight and your tail might oscillate, too lose and your belt might slip and you'll lose your tail's performance.

    Torque Tubes - Get a good meshing on your gears so that they don't slip and strip (too loose).

    Tail Blades - Plastic is fine for mild 3D, but Carbons are the way to go for all out 3D flying. Get the biggest and meanest blades that can fit on your heli.

    Other Important Stuff
    Note that for some heli models, it might be difficult to achieve a silky smooth tail setup due to the design of its components, but you could still try some of the above to make it much better.

    Use low viscosity oil for lubricating the tail components, higher viscosity oil or grease tends to make things sticky and not so smooth.

    Slop, make sure that your tail blades pitch don't move around too much without the servo moving. Replace parts that are too lose or worn out to have a tight setup. (That's still silky smooth!)

    Finally!
    Getting a great tail setup takes time and patience, but once you get there, you won't regret and you can fly with peace of mind that your tail can take anything you throw at it. I hope this little bit of advice helps! Happy flying!

    Wednesday, July 29, 2009

    Flight School Part 3 - Circuits & Figure 8's


    Figure 3.1 - The Classic Figure 8

    Welcome to Part 3 of Helidaniel.com's 100% free on-line 3D RC helicopter Flight School - where we help fellow heli pilots crash less and fly more!

    Prerequisites
    For this lesson, you should be extremely comfortable with nose in, nose out, nose right and nose left hovering. Parts 1 and 2 helps you get there.

    Flying circuits and figure 8's look deceptively simple! You might think that once you got your hover nailed, flying around is easy.... Well, it does make it much easier, but don't get ahead of yourself just yet! Better safe than sorry!

    Hovering and Flight Are Different
    As explained in Part 1, the heli's main rotor starts acting like an airplane's wing once you build up some speed. That simply means you have to learn another whole way of controlling your heli! Failure to understand this and tackle it with patience is the reason why a good number of budding heli pilots crash their heli as soon as they start flying around.

    Sim-ply Better
    Rather than giving a long and boring treatise on how to control the heli when flying around, I recommend that u simply conduct your own experiments with your simulator! Try tilting your heli forward and build up some good speed, then start messing with your elevator, alieron and collective taking note of what happens each time. You'll notice that it flies like a plane most of the time, but the nose doesn't point in the direction of your flight, and you can dramatically alter your lift with your collective!

    Yup, you guessed it! Now you have to learn to point your heli into your chosen direction of flight and manage the collective so that you don't climb to high or smash your heli into the ground at high speed! (It happens)

    Learning The Brakes
    Another thing you'll notice banging your heli around like this in the sim is that it's kinda hard to slow down after you have gathered some speed! Before you start flying your heli around at the field, you would want to make sure you can slow your heli down!

    Activating the brakes on the heli is relatively simple - tilt your main rotor away from your direction to travel and simultaneously manage your collective so that you don't climb or lose altitude. Ok, it's not so simple, but you'll get it soon enough!

    Slow is gold! You know you got your forward flight nailed when you are able to control your speed well. That normally means you are able to fly at a consistent slow speed. That's right, it's harder to fly slow than fast!

    The Drill
    Wow! We are way into this lesson and I haven't even got into circuits and figure 8's yet! I tend to believe in the superior intelligence of all who read this and give mainly tips and hints. In other words - go figure! (Hey! A pun!)

    Fly a counter-clockwise (CCW) circuit and fly a clockwise (CW) circuit. Once you've done that well, fly a 3/4 CCW circuit on your left and a 3/4 CW circuit on your right joining them together with straight lines in the middle. Viola! A figure 8! (See Figure 3.1) Don't forget to do it with a CW circuit on your left and CCW circuit on your right too!

    A Little Easier
    If flying complete circuits is a little above your head, try 1/4 circuits first, then 1/2 circuits. Take it a little step at a time and you'll find the learning more progressive and manageable.

    Being A Great Pilot
    Fly it all with constant speed and altitude. Keep your flying centered in front of you too! That usually makes the difference between a good pilot and a great pilot!

    Getting Better
    I have assumed you have been flying with your nose pointed into your direction of flight, for the adventurous, you'll have to try the same drill with your nose pointed backwards then the same sideways! Note that mastering that will take time! There are no shortcuts (at least safe ones). Keep on flying and trying!

    Next!
    Once you have mastered this lesson, you should be able to do upright heli flying pretty well, fears of crashing you heli will be all but vanished (ok, maybe not totally...) but you should be enjoying your flights more and more! Then I'll recommend a little aerobatics! Namely - Part 4 - Backward Circuits!

    Thanks for reading and keep it flying!

    Monday, July 27, 2009

    Flight School Part 2 - Sideways/Forward/Backward Flight


    Figure 2.1 - Moving around 6 different spots to practice your hover

    Hover Positions
    This lesson be done together with Part 1. As you get good at your hover right in front of you, you may slowly move your heli sideways and get it to the other 5 practice hover positions. Take about 3 to 5 seconds to move it from one position to another and pause at each position for 3 to 5 seconds. Isn't it exciting? Your heli's actually getting to places now! Ok... it's not much, but it's a start!

    Figure 2.1 shows a anti-clockwise progression, but if you prefer you may start clockwise first. Don't forget to practice both anti-clockwise and clockwise progressions though!

    It's All About Perspective
    You'll notice as you move your heli towards your sides and keep the nose pointing at the same direction, your perspective of the heli will change, you'll start seeing the sides of your heli more. You might even say that a nose out hover gets closer to the look of a a nose right hover as you move your heli towards your left side. Take a look at Figure 2.1 again, notice you'll start to see more of your heli sides at the left and right-most positions?

    The Tail Rotor Thrust Issue
    You'll find that your heli feels different when going anti-clockwise and clockwise. That's because your tail rotor is fighting torque in one direction - the Thrust the tail rotor makes pushes your heli towards it's left side at all times, you'll have to bank more in order to get the same movement towards it's right side.

    The Drill
    Once you get through the progressions good, you should try it with the nose out, nose left and nose right! Take your time and get comfortable with each orientation. Remember, the less your rush through here, the faster your learning curve will be when we get to more advanced 3D flying later!

    What You Get
    Congrats once you have gotten this lesson nailed. You would have done a little sideways flight (when the nose is facing in or out), and even some forward and backwards flight! (When the nose is facing right or left) You may even have gotten creative (and some extra fun!) and change nose orientations as you go through the positions. Remember to have fun and take a break once it gets less fun and move towards frustration.

    What's Next
    I'm tempted to get started on flips and inverted hovers right away, but I believe the next best step should be some circuits around the field! Now it's really getting nice! The next lesson will make your heli fly around like a real heli! Come back soon for Part 3 - Flying Circuits!

    Thursday, July 23, 2009

    Flight School Part 1 - The Hover

    Welcome to Flight School! This is the 1st part in a series of tips to help beginning heli pilots to:
    1. Learn 3D RC Helicopter Flying with minimum mistakes
    2. Minimum mistakes = save big bucks + more time to fly (no need to repair heli, less trips to the hobby shop!)
    The Hover Foundation
    The hover is the foundation of heli flying. I have heard people say that if you can hover your heli in any orientation - learning new maneuvers will be much easier and crashes will be much less often. I believe that, because I have about 400 heli flights so far and have crashed less then a dozen times and more than half of those crashes where due to mechanical faults.

    When most people say they know how to hover, they usually mean they know 1/8 of a hover. Hovering is different when the nose points 1) out, 2) in, 3) left and 4) right. That's 4/8, the other 4 parts of the hover is when your heli is inverted. 5) Inverted nose in 6) inverted nose out 7) inverted nose left and 8) inverted nose right.

    That quite a lot of hovering huh? Don't bother about the inverted hovering just yet, we'll get to it later, for now let's just master 4/8 of the hover first.

    The Simulator is Your Wallet's Friend!
    I have a rule for myself, that's I'll never fly a maneuver unless I can do it in the simulator without thinking. If you are thinking how to move your sticks while hovering - you are not ready to try it out there on the flying field yet!

    So take it one step at a time, the less your rush at this stage, the quicker you'll learn later!

    The Drill
    Start the heli nose-out directly in-front of you (preferably at least 4 to 5 meters away from you) climb and get into a hover nose out. Keep practicing that till you can keep your heli at the same altitude (landing gear at eye-level) and at the same spot in front of you comfortably for extended periods of time.

    Once you got nose-out in your bag, apply left or right rudder to get the nose to point either left or right and get it to hover at the same spot and altitude again. Every time you have mastered the nose pointing in a direction, right a new direction till you get all 4 nose orientations for upright hovering.

    Fighting Temptation
    Boring huh? Try to resist the temptation to fly around, because if you haven't mastered these 4 hovering orientations, there's a high chance a crash will occur if anything goes wrong. Why? If you haven't learnt to keep your heli in a place in all 4 orientations that means you do not have the skills to put the heli exactly where you want it to be, that means if you start flying around, your heli might just fly too far away, you can't see it, crash.

    A Whole Different Ball Game
    You'll also notice that a heli flying around behaves differently from a heli sitting in a hover, that's because when you have some airspeed, the rotor disc acts like a big circular wing! That means that it behaves more like a fixed-wing airplane and a whole different set of dynamics and skills needed to control the heli come in. It's complicated enough to learn how to hover, why complicate things more?

    Hope this helps! Stay tuned for the Part 2 - Sideways/Forward/Backward Flight. Meanwhile keep it fun and keep it hovering!

    Ground School - Flybarless - Good for Beginners, Not So Good For Advanced Flyers

    I'm not saying flybarless isn't the future - I believe it is. However, from my experience and observation of other competition pilots, the following are my conclusions for now:

    Good for Beginners and Sport Flyers because:
    1. Less parts to replace during maintenance/repairs - save time and $$$
    2. Heli is more stable in wind, inverted flight and generally more stable just flying around!
    3. More recent flybarless systems are much easier to setup
    4. Though not recommended and within certain limits - mechanical setup and CG are less critical cause the electronic stabilization straightens the flying out.
    5. Tunable! Change the agility of your heli from docile to crazy just by changing a few settings. (Within the physical limits of your heli of course!)
    Not So Good for Advanced/Competition Flyers because:
    1. Properly tuned flybar system feels more connected and reacts ever so slightly faster.
    2. Servo stress and load are much more - a 90-size heli would kill the servos much faster.
    3. Flybar acts as an airbrake so some 3D maneuvers can be done tighter and more aggressively.
    4. Piros feel more natural and carries momentum that presents some 3D maneuvers better.
    5. So far both the simulators I use (Reflex and G4.5) do not simulate the feel of a flybarless heli accurately during piros and aggressive flight (i.e. flying hard and fast)
    I hope this post can help all those out there wondering what flybarless can offer to have a few more things to help their decision making/curiosity. I do feel, however, in a few years time, maybe the technology will mature and better servos and simulators will make flybarless systems universally better for all, but until then, I love the feel of my flybar heli better than the flybarless

    What Does The Results Of 3D Masters 2009 Say About Flybarless?
    At the Experts level at this year's 3D Masters, the 2nd, 3rd  places when to the Mikado vbar helis.(1st and 4th went to 90-sized nitro helis - The Raptor 90 and Synergy N9 respectively) That could mean that the technology is catching up and is beginning to be competitive... however at the Masters level, the top 4 spots where 90 sized nitro helis with flybars... The Hirobo Turbulence followed by 3 Trex 700s.

    Maybe all the Masters pilots are seasoned veterans that "grew up" on flybars - they just could not get used to flybarless. On the other hand, the Experts pilots are newer, therefore they have adapted, early-on to flybarless and thus are more competitive with it... but only time and more results will tell definitively...

    Wednesday, July 22, 2009

    The Beginning of HeliDaniel


    The HeliDaniel.com fleet at the Singapore National Aeromodelling Competition 2009

    Purely out of sudden inspiration that casts away my sloth HeliDaniel.com has been born. May this birth be nurtured well and benefit many!

    I figure we need a mission statement, so here it is:

    To help 3D RC helicopter pilots, fly more, learn flying faster, crash less, save money.

    That's a big statement to live up to, but it's better than nothing! Cheers!